Goodbye, Dubai

Our boat sets out from the Dibba port in Oman into the Arabian Sea. On a clear day it is possible to see Iran across the water, says our captain.

When we stop for our first snorkeling session I feel sorry for the local ladies in their all-covering religious robes. I join the French women and the men in marveling at the sea gardens.

The corals are surprisingly unspoilt and there are many varieties of large colourful fish all around us. My local chauffeur has become our snorkeling guide and stays too close for comfort.

Back on the boat I deliberately remove myself to the top deck in order to get away from the unwanted attention and to catch some sun away from the uncomfortable stares of the local women. I could never imagine not being able to wear a swimsuit, feel the sun on my skin and enjoy the snorkeling experience. This small freedom is also the main reason for eventually deciding not to marry my Arabian love.

After a lunch of local Arabic and Indian delicacies washed down with sweet tea, we visit a few more snorkeling sites where we see giant crabs and even find Nemo. While the kids learn to do a bit of fishing at our last stop, I retreat to the upper deck again and watch the sun set over the Hajar mountains. The scenery is desolate and I feel grateful that I had the chance to see how the vibrant underwater world contrasts with the land.

My grandmother always said ‘all’s well that ends well.’

I had many unspeakable experiences in Dubai but what’s the use of dwelling on them? Concentrating on the bad only invites more negativity. There was a time when I felt that I might be able to find an affinity with Dubai but then the moment passed and I finally didn’t like what I discovered.

Now I am happy to say that this last memory of a snorkelling trip to Oman during my life as a Dubai resident is a happy and peaceful one.

Exploring a day trip out of Dubai

During my last weekend in Dubai I decide to take a day trip to Oman, one of the most beautiful places to visit in the area and a popular excursion out of the city.

Most people drive out in their own 4x4s and even spend weekends exploring the plentiful wadis and oases in Oman, but for lack of my own car I book a snorkeling excursion with one of the many tour companies in Dubai.

With my luck I get picked up by one of the locals in his luxury 4x4: “All of the other guests are going in the tour bus but since you’re by yourself I thought I could give you a ride.”

A-hem, there’s almost nothing I can do in this city without some local trying to ‘save’ me from my singledom.

I get spoilt – chocolates, fruit and Omani chips (which is delightfully paprika flavoured). It’s a little nerve wracking as I subtly try to ward off his advances without offending. As a non-Muslim woman I am very aware that I don’t have many rights in this world.

The drive takes about two hours, including stops at the market and various historical sites along the way. Dubai residents don't need a special Omani visa to cross the border at Dibba in the Fujeirah Emirate.

When we get to the docks in Musandam on the other side of the border, I also get a tour of the luxury boats and an introduction to the Omani boat owners over very sweet tea. My chauffeur is meant to entertain a group of government officials for the day but promptly decides to join my tour instead.

When I step onto my snorkelling tour boat I introduce myself to the two families on board, one local Emirati family (all the women dressed in full abaya, all the men dressed in shorts and T-shirts) and one French family (all the women dressed in bikinis, all the men in only shorts). The local Omani boatmen look amused at my company.

This should be an interesting day…

What is there to see around the UAE?

Unless spending money is no issue, a holiday in Dubai can probably become frustrating. There are loads of malls and markets as well as luxurious bars and restaurants to choose from, but I knew that my family would be shopped and eaten out by the first day or two.

Of course, Dubai offers many beach options and fun parks, but it is probably not the preferred destination for a beach holiday or go-karting. And while the ski dome in the desert is a must-see, my family are not skiers and a glance through the windows of the Mall of the Emirates was enough to quench their curiosity.

A desert safari is also a something any holidaymaker should experience in the Middle East but it only covers half a day - and so I phoned around to find out what kind of day trips are available in and around the UAE.

First up was a family outing to the wadi in Hatta with Oasis Palm Tours. Now, I thought rock pools in the mountains mean lush green scenery but boy was I disappointed. I had never seen so much rock before and so little life. Somewhere in the middle of this nothingness there is a big pool of clear water that disappears into the rocks.

Sadly, this sight that should have been pristine is ruined by the huge amount of graffiti around there.

The tour begins with some dune bashing and ends with lunch at a lovely resort. Not bad, but I preferred the bus tour with Arabian Adventures which took us out to Fujeirah, a seaside Emirate. We even crossed over into the small town of Dibba in Oman, where I had my best meal in the Middle East up to date. The food that we enjoyed at the Golden Tulip Resort was surprisingly fresh and well flavoured. This would make a great base for a diving trip. Now I just need to sort out my PADI!

The tour was very educational and I got to see my first real oasis. So much green... like a massage for my eyes. The only downside was the attitude of the tour guide. She was so unenthusiastic, I wanted to grab her microphone and go: "Look, there is Snoopy island, it's a great spot for snorkelling!"

We visited the ruins of the Fujeirah fort on the way back to Dubai and I found it quite shocking to learn from the tour operators that these buildings are being rebuilt to resemble their original state on top of the ruins. I guess here people think differently: why preserve the old when it can simply be recreated?

A week filled up pretty quickly and I never even got to take my family to Al Ain (which is also an oasis) or even Abu Dhabi, the island capital of the UAE. So then, there is more to explore around here than I thought albeit not good for a woman to go around alone. I will have to invite my family for another holiday.