Our African Queen barge cruise along a river of wine

‘Pick something fabulous that you haven’t yet done in and around Cape Town and then we’ll do it together before you move to Europe,’ said my friend Susan. My first thought was a wine tasting day tour through the Hemel & Aarde (Heaven & Earth) valley in Hermanus. Or a barge cruise along the Klein River in Stanford.

Since Hermanus and Stanford are close enough together we decided to combine the two and soon got a nice festive crowd together. Gourmet coffee and deli snacks from the Hermanuspietersfontein weekend Food & Wine Market started our day right at the foot of the Hemel & Aarde valley. Once everyone was awake and ready, it was time to start our wine tasting. I quite liked the Hermanuspietersfontein Bordeaux-style Bloos, a blush wine with notes of berries and oak.

Yet, the best wines were to be found further up in the valley and we soon moved on to our favourites. The weather wasn’t exactly playing along, but we were determined to make great memories and earthy red wines from the Creation Winery soon warmed us up. With typically green rolling hills and sweeping valleys all lined with neat vines, the setting was as good as it gets. No wonder they allude to Eden when telling the story of the wine farm.

Next stop - and the highlight for me - was Ataraxia Wine Estate, with its chapel-style wine tasting room high up on a hill. Here we spent hours lingering and watching the dark clouds cast a beautiful light across the vineyards and fynbos. I bought a few bottles of Serenity 2008, a red blend made with a selection of undisclosed varietals, the winemaker’s secret in creating the perfectly balanced wine.

And so, armed with enough wine to water a small country, we made our way to Stanford to board the African Queen, for a sunset barge cruise along the Klein River. Susan had arranged a foodie feast and we soon lit both fireplaces on the barge, one to keep us warm and the other to have a braai, with steaks and boerewors, in true South African style.

Once the sun had set, it was quite cold and the wine was flowing freely. The guys all decided it would probably be warmer inside the water than out and so got rid of their kit and towed along the back of the barge holding on to tyres and tubes. Meanwhile us girls were dancing under the stars on the top deck of the barge.

Somehow we just didn’t want the good times to end and stopped at a pub in Stanford afterwards to make a good attempt at finishing all the wine in the Hermanus Winelands area. Sure, things got messy, but it was a day that I will never forget, shared with good friends who never fail to stick with me, rain or shine.

If you would like to arrange your own African Queen barge cruise in Stanford, contact Marlene on marlenes@maxitec.co.za

Proudly South African at Fairview

The main attraction at the Fairview wine and cheese farm in Paarl is no doubt the little goat tower, where goats lazily peek through tiny windows like fairy tale characters.

Besides the delicious Fairview cheese platters paired with its award-winning wines, the goats add that something extra, an interesting detail that can keep guests and especially kids entertained for hours. Then there’s the deli, which always gets my full attention. I like to select freshly baked bread, olive oil and cheeses like Crottin and Blue Rock with apricots. The hand woven baskets adds such a lovely rustic touch to the shopping atmosphere.

Fairview recently became the first carbon neutral cheesery in Africa, pulling out all the stops to make sure that this beautiful part of the world stays protected and nourished so that future generations can get as much joy (and wine and cheese) from it. Fairview owner Charles Back also recently bought over the neighbouring Seidelberg Estate and will be using it as a base for its Spice Route Label. My mom and I popped in to visit the brand new artisan chocolatier and look forward to seeing the chocolate tasting lounge opening soon. Lots of exciting things happening at this firm Cape Winelands favourite!

Somehow, even after many visits to Fairview I’ve always missed this proudly South African herb garden (see photo), carefully designed for the colours to resemble our flag. There is always something more to discover in the Cape Town area, no matter how much time is spent here.

The Cape is a heart place and looking out over this natural resemblance of out national pride makes my heart feel full to be South African. Especially on such a beautiful day! Perhaps the feeling is highlighted ahead of my big move to Munich, but the beautiful moments in Cape Town truly are as good as it gets.

Goat's cheese lollipops at The Greenhouse

Bright red caramelized goat’s cheese lollipops peek out from a patch of wheatgrass like two festive flowers. A small clay flower pot showcases crudités ‘planted’ in edible soil created from herb mousse and breadcrumbs. The Greenhouse seems to be a suitably named restaurant for such imaginatively themed canapés.

They also provide some clues as to why Chef Peter Tempelhoff has been graced with multiple awards lately. Not only did The Greenhouse earn top spot as best restaurant in South Africa at the Eat Out Top Ten awards, Peter also earned Grand Chef status for the five restaurants that he oversees within ‘The Collection by Liz McGrath’ for Relais & Chateax. While we don’t have the Michelin star rating in South Africa, becoming a Grand Chef means having to meet Michelin standards and having international appeal.

My dad, who's really more of a burger and chips guy, really loved the way gourmet delights were combined with simple ingredients, such as foie gras with lentils. It also goes a long way in bringing that hearty South African food culture to the fore. Asparagus, smoked potato, chorizo and sweet corn chowder adds simple yet romantic flavours to the salmon trout mi cuit. The warm sweet potato mousse is served with crayfish and leeks and served in egg shells. For me, this is what stands out most about The Greenhouse; that it brings fun to a multiple course fine dining experience.

At the end of an evening there is not one thing less than perfect to point out. From the smell of garden roses on entering the property to the early-evening light spilling through large trees into the dining room, to the perceptive service and Vin de Constance pairing with smoked chocolate and peanut gateaux, it is all just; delicious. And full of fond food memories, like lollipops.

An article based on this blog post was published in the February issue of AbouTime magazine, the 1Time Airline in-flight magazine.

Mussels and bubbles make the day at Bistro 1682

 

There are few things as delicious as a good pot of mussels cooked in cream and wine and served with bubbly made in the Champagne tradition.  My first true experience of moules was with friends in Epernay in the Champagne valley – a few stolen days after a business trip to Paris. It was magnifique.

The only pot of mussels that ever managed to rival that was the one I shared with my friend Susan at Steenberg Estate in Cape Town. Not only does Steenberg have one of the most delightful restaurants in the Cape but they also make my favourite Méthode Cap Classique (MCC), South Africa’s version of great bubbles made according to the French tradition.

Susan and I both had the afternoon free and decided to meet at Steenberg for a leisurely bite to eat and a bit of a girly catch-up. Their tasting room, with its old brass telescopes and comfortable leather couches looking out on to modern water features, is somewhat irresistible but since Cape Town was showing off its sunny side we sat outside and tasted our way through a few wines before moving on to the restaurant.

We both like finger food and decided to order a few starters and tapas to enjoy with our MCC. The flavours, as usual, bowled us over. The Carpaccio made the prettiest picture, although my food photography probably doesn’t do it justice here. Topped with radish, lemongrass, watercress and chili, it was a complete foodie delight. 

Yet, it was the mussel pot that cast a spell of wonder on our day. Fresh-fresh mussels cooked with cream, wine, lots of garlic and fennel and topped with tomato and parsley. It’s almost as good when you try it at home.

Any time spent with good friends is a treat, but combined with great food and fine bubbles it becomes a moment to relish forever.

Al fresco lunch at the Delaire Graff Estate

Recently I’ve been lucky enough to be treated to a leisurely lunch at Delaire in the Stellenbosch Winelands about an hour’s drive from Cape Town. Owned by Laurence Graff from Graff Diamonds International, the Delaire Graff setup is a bold statement of luxury, from the lodges and spa through to the winelands restaurant.

The drive out there was an experience in itself, scarf wafting in the summer breeze from the passenger seat of a classic Beetle Cabriolet. I felt a bit like Audrey Hepburn. On arrival at the swanky Delaire Graff Estate right at the top of the Helshoogte Pass, the whole parking lot was parked up with Ferraris. As though the view from up there is not enough to take one’s breath away.

By the time I was done jaw dropping my friends had already ordered a bottle of Delaire Cabernet Franc rosé, an elegant Provence pink wine choice. All berries and spice, with just the refreshing kind of crisp needed after the sunshine drive. I was delighted to see ingredients like spatzle and kohlrabi on the menu, some of my favourite treats when making a trip to Germany. Here it’s all fused with fresh local produce and a lot of flair.

I settle on the roast chicken for mains. It arrives on a bed of risotto with some artichokes and kohlrabi on the side. The portion is fulfilling and satisfying and I’m glad I decided to skip starters. The rosé wine offered a lovely understated pairing. There was a tiny spot left in my stomach for a bit of pistachio nougat dessert served with rose geranium ice-cream. I’m not a typical sweet tooth but this was certainly the highlight of my meal. By the time we left I still had some lovely Turkish delight flavours lingering on my tongue.

While lunch at Delaire is probably one of the most expensive meals you’ll have in and around Cape Town it is certainly worth every cent. The view from the restaurant terrace is the most beautiful you’ll find in all of the Cape Winelands, the landscaping and architecture of the estate is exquisite, the menu is really interesting and the food and wine is just, well, another reason to fall in love with Cape Town.

The Crystal Towers' eternity pool of wonder

Those who know me well would be aware of my enchantment with the eternity pool (also known as an infinity pool). I love how it creates the visual effect of still water reaching right into to the edge of the view as though merging with the horizon. This is especially effective with an ocean view, when it looks like the swimming pool extends into infinity.

Imagine my delight in spending an afternoon with the girls lazing about in the eternity pool at the Crystal Towers Hotel and Spa in Cape Town. I say ‘in’ the eternity pool because at the Crystal Towers they put sun loungers inside the pool, so it’s possible to catch a tan in the middle of the water to an eternity view of Table Mountain. What's more, Table Mountain was recently voted one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. So being struck by the wonder of it all was not too OTT.

So there I am lounging in the African sunshine, dipping my MAC pink toe nails in the water while sipping on a Cosmopolitan that smells of orange zest. Having the Crystal Towers Spa in such close vicinity makes it easy to pop in for a quick massage or facial and then continue the marathon catch-up session with the girls. As usual this includes all the drama and the scandal; dating, dreams and joy - stuff soapies are made of. Wink.

What makes the Crystal Towers spa especially suitable for a girly outing is their Turkish rasul and floatation chamber. The rasul is a communal treatment room all done up in mosaics and filled with aromatheraphy infused steam. You cover your whole body with a sort of mineralized clay and then just relax in there. At the end of the treatment a rain shower comes down in order to wash off the clay and invigorate you after the treatment.

The floatation chamber, in turn, is a dim lit room with a high salt content pool in which you float same as in the Dead Sea. It is super relaxing and apparently has the same holistic effect on the body as a few hours of good sleep. I think spending the afternoon with beautiful friends in an eternity pool with a view of Table Mountain has some especially wonderful effects too. Only question is, when do we do this again?

A glass of Hannibal awaits the Audi A7 jet pilot

My friends enjoy making fun of my driving skills, but they were not all there to see me test drive the new Audi A7 out to lunch with Peter Finlayson & co in Hermanus recently. It was a networking day with the kind of professionals who appreciate good South African pinot noir and king oyster mushrooms.

The Audi Centre at the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town presented us with a couple of their most luxurious models; the A6, A7, A8 and Q7. Cape Town was showing off with gorgeous winter sunshine and the N2 highway was quiet enough for us to put foot. We all took turns to drive different stretches in different cars, almost like, musical cars.

During my stint as a passenger in the super luxurious Audi A8 I had much fun playing with the seat warmer. Just as I started purring like a cat, it was my turn to drive. It was almost like flying all the way up Sir Lowry’s pass, leaving sweeping views of the ocean behind for a host of apple trees in the Elgin valley. All the while the Bose speakers were blaring gangster hip hop and the lovely gentlemen from the Audi Centre allowed me to push the speed limit just a bit.

It was, however, the Audi A7 that stole my heart during that last stretch out to Hemel en Aarde (Afrikaans for Heaven and Earth) valley in Hermanus, while we were swiftly gliding around the last of the bends. I felt like a jet pilot with the high-tech travel speed display that was projected into the windscreen, only visible to me, from my driver seat cockpit. It’s a stroke of genius that allowed me to keep my eyes on the road at all times and still stay up to date with my travel information.

It was hard to part with this black beauty when we finally reached our destination: Bouchard Finlayson boutique vineyard in the Hemel en Aarde valley. Henrico Grobbelaar from Azure restaurant at the 12 Apostles Hotel and Spa was already carefully preparing a feast of Chalmar beef carpaccio drizzled with truffle oil and paired with Galpin Peak Pinot Noir for starters.

And so from one love to another; luxury cars to gourmet food and fine wine with fellow coinnoisseurs. By the time I reached the platter of Cape cheese, glass of Hannibal 2009 in hand, I was filled with the wonder of this sunshiny day, the elegance of the cooler climate South African red wines and the lazy indulgence of being chauffeured all the way back to Cape Town in the Audi Q7. Heaven, indeed.

A day at the SA Chefs Academy

On arrival at the South African Chefs Academy in Cape Town I don full chef's attire and report to Garth Stroebel in the hot kitchen. Garth is a legend in South African food circles, with a list of enviable international achievements to his name. Together with Paul Hartmann, they simulate a real life environment with lots of practical learning opportunities as I would soon find out.

I’m here for a lesson in cooking fish. Chef Stroebel proudly presents us with a shiny Norwegian salmon, which was “still swimming in the fjords a few days ago”.

While filleting, he quickly whips up some salmon tartare. Chopped gherkin, capers, red Spanish onions, parsley and the soft salmon meat is mixed with a bit of mustard. We get to taste it on top of a cracker and I can taste the sea and the tang of the individual flavours.

Chef prepares the sashimi while we get on with the tataki and confit. First we cure our salmon in a salt and sugar mixture. We then wash and sear it, before placing the fish on a piece of plastic wrap together with a small amount of marinade and wrapping it up. We dip the parcels in iced water to stop the cooking process and later on we will slice it into rounds through the plastic holding it together.

In the meantime we make a cucumber and chili salad with vinaigrette and slice half a fennel bulb, "like angel's hair". I learn the claw method for slicing, which involves running the blade up and down the middle part of my middle finger, while the rest of my hand is safely clawed away. We add boiled water with a bit of rice vinegar, a bay leaf and peppercorns to the fennel and let it stand.

The confit we prepare by covering the last pieces of salmon in oil and poaching it in the oven at 60 degrees. This locks the flavour inside; nothing can escape so it doesn't dry out and the goodness is preserved. We do the same with some rosa tomatoes, to bring out their sweetness.

For the garnish we press and dry fry the salmon skin before cutting it into strips. We also deep fry rice noodles and tie it with a nori ribbon. I create a mat of sliced cucumber on the serving plate and add salad as a base for the sashimi, garnished with wasabi. Together with soya sauce, wasabi has the dual purpose of flavouring and killing bacteria on the raw fish. Chef inspects my plate and I'm chuffed that I whipped up this trio of salmon with just a little guidance.

The best part, though, is tasting the meal afterwards and exploring the different textures and flavours that we have achieved through different styles of preparation. I will never look at cooking salmon in quite the same way again. Anyone for dinner?

For more information about the workshops contact info@sachefsacademy.com

Dinner and movie romance at the 12 Apostles is on my Bucket List

As though the drive along Victora Road to the 12 Apostles Hotel and Spa is not enough of a sensory delight (an eternity of sea, sky and fynbos), the sunset view from the parking lot of the hotel takes my breath away. Set just a few minutes' drive away from the palm tree lined party strip in Camp's Bay, the 12 Apostles is surrounded by pristine land- and seascapes as far as the eye can see.

Winter is just the time to indulge in the dinner and movie special at the 12 Apostles, which includes a three course movie menu at the Azure restaurant topped off with popcorn, candy, milkshake and hot chocolate in the 16-seater cinema. Whilst this may just as well make for a fun girls night out, I brought a date this evening. Reason being, if a five star meal and a private cinema are not enough to stir up feelings of romance, then, nothing will.

I choose a chicken noodle soup for starters, in the hope of scaring off the winter chills. It arrives steamy and full of comfort; takes me right back to my grandmother's kitchen table. My date goes for a fresh vegetable salad, complaining that he will have to spend extra time in the gym after all the rich food that lies ahead this evening.

For mains I opt for roasted duck, a perrennial favourite. Some restaurants do get it wong, however, and there's nothing as disapponting as when something that could be heavenly arrives any less than. Executive Chef, Henrico Grobbelaar, does a great job, though. He tells me he has also cooked for the Fifa bosses during the World Cup and apparently they were super impressed with his foodie creations too.

The duck goes beautifully with a glass or two of Bouchard Finleyson Hannibal, the wine aromas adding to the flavour of the duck and the bacon, thyme and leek potato rosti with pear jus on the side. My date enjoys his chicken curry and seems to relax into the evening.

For dessert I do not resist the crème brûlèe made with rooibos and served with apricot sorbet. I also go for a chocolate milkshake and popcorn in the cinema. However, by this time my companion has pushed aside the indulgences in an attempt to save on a lifetime-on-the-hips scenario. We end up having a lovely time together but it is clear that my affinity for life's finer pleasure makes him a little nervous.

The movie for the evening is Bucket List and I quickly draw up a personal list in my mind. Shameless, earth shattering, forever yours romance at the 12 Apostles Hotel and Spa is definitely on there. I will keep you posted.

Loving Cape Town's in-between seasons

I live in the seams. In between things. In between day and night lies the most beautiful light. In live in the spring and I live in the fall. In between hot and old. In between young and cold. In between daydreams and dance. I might be in Cape Town but I'm packing for France. In between seasons and in between time. In between sips of wine is where I find the divine.

The first cold front of the Cape Town winter was thoroughly celebrated on the weekend with a visit to the Cape Winelands. Suzanne Vega and Zaz in my CD player and fresh drops of rain on my windscreen while the vineyard landscape slowly unveiled its misty grey.

I started at JC le Roux for an MCC (Cape bubbly made according to the French champagne tradition) and meringue pairing with my German family and made a short little roadtrip over to Delheim Estate for a lunch of cheese, bratwurst and Cape Malay curry next to the fireplace at one of the most intimate winter lunch spots in the area. I often wonder whether the age old trees or the wishing well knows more secrets.

For dessert, we moved on to a chocolate and port tasting at the neighbouring Muratie Wine Estate, where giant spider webs and sepia photographs above a dusty piano created an eerie but magical feeling. The artisan chocolate truffles and sweet wine soon had us glowing inside this cosy tasting room.

I feel inspired, like the first rain of the season has enchanted me. I love the crisp air, the hot chocolate and wrapping up in a big fluffy blanket with my laptop and my writing glasses. And it's just about the most perfect excuse for a nice and social wine tasting.

Here's to the Cape's hot and cold Autumn!

Late summer partying in Bantry Bay

Cape Town's Bantry Bay is by far the best place to enjoy the end of summer. Since it is a protected and secluded bay it is a wind free spot in a city known for its windy climate, especially in late summer. Bantry Bay is famous for its luxury properties sitting high up on cliffs overlooking the ocean.

The Peroni parties held on the pool deck of the Ambassador Hotel in Bantry Bay every weekend over the last few weeks has been the epitome of Cape Town cool. Luscious, lazy summer afternoons, sipping sparkling wine (or Peroni, of course) with friends while the sunset throws candyfloss colours accross the sea and the sky.

As usual Cape Town's beautiful people did not disappoint. Models, entrepeneurs, travellers and great looking wannabees all made their appearance at these parties while bikini girls provided some splash pool entertainment. This city has more than its fair amount of picture perfect people, most probably due to the fact that it's a hot spot for photographic and film shoots.

Once the sun disappeared behind the ocean Ibiza style tunes set the soundtrack for an chilled out evening under the stars, with the ocean lulling below.

And for those who like to insist on keeping the good times going late at night (like me, at times) the fun was continued with some dancing at the Salt Vodka bar accross the road from the hotel; a lovely intimate venue for getting 'elegantly wasted' as INXS would say.

Spoilt rotten we are in Cape Town! This really is as good as it gets. Best thing is that these kinds of perfect moments come around often in this small town.

Girls night at the Mount Nelson

Right in the centre of Cape Town sits the Mount Nelson Hotel. Surrounded by a lush rose garden it is over 100 years old and still has that quintessential colonial feel. Capetonians fondly refer to this pink hotel as the 'Nellie' and like to frequent the Planet Champagne Bar where they often get to rub shoulders with celebs.

I count myself lucky to have the opportunity to spend a night at the Nellie. It's a perfect mini holiday with the girls, just two blocks from my own home. We start with the legendary Mount Nelson Afternoon Tea which has been praised by international foodies as one of the best in the world.

The sweeping view of the gardens from the terrace is certainly impressive but it’s the tea menu that demands my undivided attention. With a selection of white, black, yellow, green and red teas from all over the world each one sounds more inviting than the other. We order Japanese Sencha tea, black tea with pink rose petals and blooming Chinese tea flower balls. The latter is a little piece of art; when dropping the flower ball into the boiling water, the tea leaves open up to reveal a flower.

By the time we are satiated with home made Turkish delight, truffles and cheese cake, amongst other sweet and savoury delight, it is time for a walk through the gardens. A summer flower palette is set against age old trees and rolling lawns. Susan and I have a good heart to heart and then head over to the Planet bar for a champagne cocktail or two. Believe it or not, but the biltong cheese straw snacks whets the appetite for dinner.

To make sure we get to enjoy our luxurious hotel rooms, we settle on inroom dining where we are also treated to some complimentary red wine. The Mount Nelson Hotel is slowly revamping their rooms and instead of the Biggie Best pastels look, the update is classic rose patterned neutrals, set off with the swanky sparkle of silver framed mirrors.

For dinner we share a two course feast of Carpaccio, smoked salmon, rib-eye steak, tiger prawns and lamb cutlets. Having been an afternoon of overindulgence Antonia suddenly decides that it would be a good idea to swim it off and we promptly head for a midnight dip in the pool. It's refreshing - pretty cold actually - even on this hot summers night - and quickly gets our metabolism going again.

Once we get back to our rooms, it's already late and we sink into the large beds and a peaceful sleep. At the breakfast buffet we are not quite sure whether we are still dreaming or awake, as the Methode Cap Classique arrives at our table and the melon, Parma ham, poached eggs and pastries keep on coming.

Our mini break ends with a couple of hours on the lounge chairs at the pool outside. Table Mountain and Lion's head peeks from behind our now favourite pink hotel. What a fabulously luxurious girly stay over right in the heart of Cape Town. Thank you Nellie!

Read more about my Mount Nelson experience.

Music and magic in the Paul Cluver forest

It’s apple season in the Cape and I recently visited the Paul Cluver Estate just outside Grabouw in the apple vally of Elgin, about an hour's drive from central Cape Town.

The main reason for my visit was to write stories about the Paul Cluver Wine Estate and the Fresh restaurant on the farm. Besides the elegant cooler climate Cape wines and the Cluvers' romantic vegetable garden, it was the orchards hanging heavy with apples and the amphitheatre that wholly captured my imagination.

Being the lovely hospitable people that they are (I would also like to think it’s because they liked my articles) the Cluvers invited me to attend a show at the Cluver amphitheatre which Dr Paul Cluver (the father) built with his own hands. He is quite the woodworker and has also made a lot of the furniture on the farm, including the tasting room and restaurant.

I arrive for the concert on a warm, still summers night. The Cluvers are amongst the most hospitable hosts around and before I know it I have a Grabouw boerewors roll with tomato smoor and Caprese cocktail sticks – no doubt with tomatoes and basil from their own patch informally known as the Garden of Elgin. It goes down just beautifully with a glass of Paul Cluver Pinot Noir served by Mr Paul Cluver (the son and ruler of Cluver land) himself.

As dusk falls I can almost imagine fairies stepping out of the shadows amongst the tall trees. We move over to the amphitheatre to settle down in this enchanting space and listen to Arno Castens as he sets the mood for the evening with some chilled numbers. The die hard fans are already lip synching to the songs.

Arno Carstens and his former band have had a significant impact on the psyche of South African rock lovers and also in the soundtrack of my life. I will never forget shaking my hair to ‘Little Daisy’ and ‘Bubblegum’ on holiday in Hermanus during high school.

Indeed, after the break former Springbok Nude Girls band member Theo Crous makes a surprise performance on stage and the crown goes wild. Arno Carstens’ former band has reassembled to perform as opening act for the U2 concert in Cape Town on 18 February 2011. I feel quite nostalgic as I listen to them performing soft rock versions of the songs that first made them famous.

As the last of the daylight fades in the Cluver forest I am convinced that there is a little magic in this place. Perhaps it's the combination of wine and music beneath giant trees but this forest amphitheatre is by far the most haunting venue in the whole of Cape Town.

Winter in Cape Town is for the epicureans

There’s just something about winter in Cape Town. Rain against the window pane whilst sitting in front of a fireplace in one of the world’s best restaurants. Warm company, award-winning South African red wine and the kind of winter food specials that make this luxury so easily accessible.

Yes, winter is what the epicureans live for in Cape Town. Summer is for the glitzy crowd who like to shake their platinum blonde hair on Clifton beach. I do like Clifton beach and running around in sandals (there’s a Jimmy Choo shop at the Waterfront these days) and dresses while enjoying the sun on my skin. Yet some of us just love good food and wine even more than the beach.

Winter is the time of year when you can have the creamy tempura prawn sushi at Willoughby’s, the pork belly at Waterkloof restaurant and that Lindt fondant at Brio, not to mention the Bruce Robertson picnic baskets at Warwick or one of the fabulous crispy base pizzas at Posticinos. All that besides the bubbly and the wine and the many lovely home dinners amongst good friends who love to entertain as much as I do.

Yet there are always those 26 degree Celsius winter days when us Capetonians are coaxed out of our shells. That’s when The Grand Beach offers the perfect setting. While South African law forbids drinking on public beaches, The Grand is technically not situated on a beach. They simply created a man made beach at this idyllic sea side location, added some crystal chandeliers and Parisian medicine cabinets to the warehouse next to it – and soon fashionistas, celebrities and millionaires from near and far found their new favourite spot. They serve decent champagne and do good pizza too.

Me, well I’ve been detoxing after all that indulgence. It’s time for the winter layers to disappear earlier this year. Reason being that I’m catching the end of summer 2010 and some good friends in Europe. It’s about time for a little trip. It will be the first one since coming back home to Cape Town. Bring on the sun!

Thank you Madiba, for a piece of Paris (and everywhere else) in Cape Town

It has indeed been a sad week in Cape Town. All rainy and quiet. The World Cup is over and I never thought I’d actually miss the vuvuzelas.

Not that everything has gone back to normal. It’s even possible that the city will never be the same again. The whole world had the chance to see what warm and welcoming people South Africans are and that Cape Town is indeed one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Now all those tourists want to come back again! The fantastic winter weather and security success we had over World Cup time also helped to generate some good word of mouth from travellers returning home.

South Africans were finally united behind one flag, for the first time since the end of Apartheid. Really. For once we stood up as one country without fighting. South African people from all races and travellers from all over the world cheered arm in arm in a country that was once so culturally divided. No one can ever take that away.

It’s only fitting then, to end an incredible World Cup with Nelson Mandela’s birthday on Sunday 18 July 2010. We owe this cosmopolitan status quo to him after all. Not only are we free in South Africa, to be ourselves and to construct our lives in any way we choose – but our country is also finally able to get the international recognition and support it deserves. Not to mention a little football magic.

There’s a lot to look forward to post World Cup 2010 in Cape Town. Now there will finally be time to indulge in all the winter specials at Cape Town’s finest restaurants and catch up on tasting all the Cape’s award winning wines around a snug fireplace. And soon, it will be summer again...

Personally, I’m excited about the little piece of Paris that will stay in Cape Town until the end of the year. While the Wheel of Excellence at the V&A Waterfront is owned by a Dutch company, it spent last Christmas on the Champs Élysées. Lucky wheel!

Perhaps the end of the World Cup will be just the beginning of many more great things in Cape Town. Can't wait to see what lies ahead!

‘Super Deutschland Olé Olé!’

Despite spirited cheering from the Argentinians at the Cape Town stadium last weekend (they even jumped up and down when they were singing their national anthem), the Germans quickly made mash of them on the pitch.

Good defense tactics kept Argentina out of play while a clever game plan combined with a generous dose of German discipline led Super Deutschland to send another South American team home on 3 July 2010. The tension in the stadium was tangible. Masses of vibrant Argentina fans became eerily quiet while the usually subdued Germans couldn’t keep their joy inside.

A 4-0 win for Germany had fans singing German football songs in the stadium long after the final whistle had blown. I cheered along with the Germans who invited me for the game. It’s always nice to learn something new, this time it was a football song: “Super Deutschland, Super Deutschland, Ole, Ole!”

Afterwards, at the Cape Quarter, the vibe was incredible. We were lucky to still get a table at Tank restaurant. The square was full and the German supporters proudly boasted with their soccer jerseys, face paint and flags. Some sushi went down well with a bottle (or three) of celebratory Haute Cabriére Chardonnay Pinot Noir while watching Spain confirm their place in the semi-final against Germany on Wednesday 7 July in Durban.

My new friends from Frankfurt quickly managed to sort out a little trip to the tropical South African city of Durban to support their team. I’ll have to sing my new found song loud enough for them to hear it all the way from Cape Town tonight.

The Cape is Dutch all over again

Not only did the Dutch colonize the Cape back in the day; they also totally took over the city on 24 June 2010 when Holland took on Cameroon in the FIFA World Cup™ group match at the Cape Town stadium.

A sea of orange gathered at the FIFA Fan Fest™ on the Grand Parade during the day – all dressed in orange, from cheese and pumpkin costumes to clown hair and orange glitter false eyelashes.

Why orange? Well, the Dutch Royal family has the surname Van Oranje and thus wearing orange in support of Holland just developed spontaneously. The Dutch dress up in orange for all national occasions and Cape Town’s local Dutch residents host their fair share of orange parties on Dutch national days, many of them at Rafikis bar.

Yet Cape Town has not yet seen the amount of orange that marched from the FIFA Fan Fest™ all along the Fan Walk™ to the stadium on 24 June 2010. A Kaapse Klopse band (the Cape’s authentic ghoema jazz sound) joined the parade of over 70 000 people. People were watching them pass by from balconies, walls and hotel windows.

Once inside the stadium, the spirit of orange continued with enthusiastic vuvuzela blowing and Mexican waves. A 2-1 win for Holland against Cameroon made sure that the Dutch took the day, even though the team qualified for the round-of-16 ahead of the game.

Since then Jeeps kitted out in orange flags are blaring Dutch music throughout Cape Town. Orange, orange everywhere. Just like that, the Cape is Dutch again.

The world is on my doorstep

So I decide to come home after travelling the four corners of the earth. I’ve hardly managed to plant my feet firmly on Cape Town soil and the whole world follows me here. Ok, so I’m not really that popular; rather, it’s the FIFA World Cup and people from all over the world are in Cape Town to watch the soccer.

I am delighted to see Cape Town decorated with flags and to hear all kinds of foreign accents as soon as I step on to the streets. Travel is in my blood and it makes me happy so mingle with travelers on random nights out and being a bit of a tour guide in my own beautiful city. I’ve also discovered that I love the beautiful game, which is a bonus.

Cape Town is more fun than ever before – and it’s always been fun! There are football fan parks all over the city, big tents serving beer and boerewors rolls to sports fans dressed up in costumes that represent their country. Bars, nightclubs and restaurants are all offering Specials and Capetonians are entertaining friends from faraway places.

“I still think California is the greatest city in the world – it’s my home,” says Matthew, dressed from top to toe in US football gear, “but Cape Town is second best.”

My favourite part, I must confess, is that there are finally more straight men in Cape Town than women. That means I am turning heads, being asked for my phone number and told I am the most tres beau, benito, bella woman in the world on a daily basis. I know it means nothing, in a few weeks the soccer fans will all be gone and Cape Town will sink back into its lovely laid-back rhythm.

Yet – for a single travel obsessed girl grounded in a beautiful gay capital this is just the kind of travel and confidence boost I need to keep going strong.

My summer in Cape Town

Coming home to Cape Town after two and a half years of travelling has been a super natural high. Rolling out of bed onto the beach on a Saturday morning and then catching up with some fabulous people for a braai (South African style barbeque) in the afternoon has been like a mini holiday every weekend.

Summer 09/10 sits up there with one of my favourites of all time. My senses were heightened to every little thing that Cape Town has to offer, from the smell of fynbos to the hearty cooking of friends, the nostalgia of horse stables and the aromas of South Africa’s best wines. I let the waterfalls wash over me and the sea breeze play with my hair.

Then I put on my stiletto's and danced off to discover that Cape Town now offers Nobu's finest Japanese cuisine and that the local Simonsig Brut is still just as delightful.

The feeling that I truly belong somewhere really hit home when I moved back into my old apartment on Kloofnek Road, five minutes from Clifton beach, five minutes from the Cape Town Stadium, five minutes from the shops, the cool party spots and almost everything else that I could possibly need, or want. I know so many people in my neighbourhood and bumped into other fond acquaintances at regular intervals.

Cape Town is a small town. It’s one of the few cities in the world where you still get a community vibe and, of course, where nature abounds and it is possible to go for a hike in the mountains or a sunset walk on the beach as an after work treat.

It was fairly easy to get a good job. Although it took some time, there were also ample opportunities to freelance as a writer. My head has been under the water for the last few months though and I’ve been gasping for some fresh Atlantic Ocean air in between work assignments, social engagements and finding personal fulfillment.

It almost caught me off guard when the clouds started rolling over Table Mountain a couple of weeks ago and the first cold front of the winter hit my hometown. Never mind April Fools, it’s almost June and time for the FIFA World Cup kick-off. I’m impressed with the city upgrades related to this event. Better roads, transport systems and security measures will make a difference to the locals even beyond the 2010 soccer spectacular.

After all this time of basking myself in the African sun, I’ve finally gathered myself and I’m ready to start writing again. I’ll keep you updated with the soccer atmosphere in Cape Town and everything else I love about my city.

Hello Cape Town, happy 2010!

Whoohoo, I think I may just be the happiest person in Cape Town about the beginning of this New Year.

Love and everything else was a major let-down in 2009 but it was also a very valuable learning curve. It’s a great relief to leave it all behind and use my new found wisdom to explore more fulfilling life choices.

My feet are firmly on the ground for now and although I will never lose my love for travelling I am feeling very present in Cape Town and I am looking forward to a new phase in my life where things will hopefully be less fleeting.

Having seen so much of the world and the 2009 recession, it is quite a pity that so many South African people are still negative about our country. Crime, racism, poverty, unemployment, government corruption – that’s almost everywhere.

Job opportunities are looking dismal in the US and UK, Europe is not what it used to be and Dubai is only just surviving the debt crisis. South Africa only caught a slight ripple of the recession effect and, according to the local news, is already out of trouble.

2010 also brings the FIFA World Cup™ and all eyes will be on South Africa for a while. The worst of the baddies in power will have to tread lightly in order to pull off all of this international attention and increased tourism opportunities.

In this light, so many South Africans, like me, are now coming back in the knowledge that the grass isn't always greener (and in fact there are some places with no grass at all...).

Today the sun is out in Cape Town, there’s not a breath of wind and the beaches are full of beautiful people. Right now there is nowhere else I would rather be.