Sweet, sweet Singapore

2009 took everything from me and left me feeling like a date palm at a dried up oasis. Great was my relief then when I walked out of Changi airport; Singapore welcomed me with a big wet humidity hug.

A bowl of wonton noodle soup later I am feeling a lot more at ease. The combination of family and tropical weather is just what the doctor ordered. Although I wake up with throbbing ears and vow that I will give up aircon for good.

Nothing stops me from visiting Bugis for a shopping spree through. I show mom my favourite shops, Womb, M)phosis, Charles & Keith, The Face Shop and then take her for a snack of Octopus balls with shaved pork and Beard Papa cream puffs. Now that’s my idea of a perfect day.

We meet my uncle and aunt in Chinatown for dinner after running around for a new glass teapot. Sitting down to Tiger beer shandies, pineapple rice and crispy squid, our laughter lasts into the night until sleep comes to claim us for bed.

Ah, the sweet life in Singapore… where Chinese food is better than in China, the fruit has a delightful flavour and everything you could possibly want is contained within one tropical island city. I leave with pretty flowers painted on my toes and an impressive selection of shopping bags.

Now just a few more stops to go until I get back to Cape Town. I just pray that my ears will last for the last little bit.

Rounding up some Chinese luck

The first few weeks of 2008 had me pinching myself to make sure that things really were going that wrong for me and my travels. Well, luckily February brought with it an opportunity to start all over again: Chinese New Year.

I was fortunate enough to celebrate the Year of the Rat with my family in Singapore. It only took a few iced teas and lucky chocolate coins for my woes to dissipate. Ok, so my aunt’s loving face and the festive atmosphere in Chinatown also helped.

Chinese lanterns and animated faces lit up the streets, where Chinese and tourists alike elbowed each other to get to the stalls with the best sales. Everything was discounted, from New Year’s decorations to bed linen.

We tried some Chinese sweets from a vendor, who opened his eyes as wide as possible and wildly gestured for us to stuff a plastic bag full of it, ‘only five dollar’. Later on we discovered that these sweets come in more flavours than just pineapple and peanut – try pumpkin and pepper, ugh!

The closer it got to midnight, the more people streamed into the streets until it became a human river and we couldn’t walk anymore but rather had to lean in the direction where we wanted to go.

Unfortunately I couldn’t stay for the parade and the fireworks but I did see a few dragon masks and dancers practicing in the streets. Anyway, I’m not much of a crowd person.

What matters is that I came away with a kitch red Chinese patterned fabric rat with big golden ears (I will call him Rattie) to hang on my bedroom door for all the good luck I clearly need.

Can food make me truly happy?

There’s a little bowl of sweets on offer at the immigration desk as I pass through Singapore airport. It makes me smile every time. Where else in the world…

Then again, where else in the world will I find a world city that is also a tropical island, with the cleanest underground train system and flowers decorating the street names above ground.

Right now it’s rainy season and the air is infused with a distinct incense, something in between the aroma of Chinese spices and the perfume of frangipani. The wet heat weighs on my skin and the sights of fresh fashion entices me from shop windows.

Yet what excites me the most about Singapore is the food. Not even China can conjure up such delicious bites of barbeque pork, chicken rice or dim sum – and at least here food safety is a priority. Every time I step into a food court, I find it difficult to choose… freshly squeezed dragon fruit or soursop juice… palak paneer or black pepper crab…

However, tonight my date is a homesick French man and he is taking me to a French restaurant called ‘French Stall’ on Serangoon Road. We order a bottle of Bordeaux and linger over a delicate duck salad. I am slightly nervous about the main course as duck breast is one of my favourites and I am easily disappointed. Well, the first bite catches me by surprise, as it completely exceeds my expectations.*

After all the sweet nothings, I probably don’t need dessert but the chocolate and ice-cream pastry is a perfectly indulgent conclusion to this meal.

It seems that, in Singapore, food really can make me truly happy.

* Highly recommended: Sliced duck breast d’orange, served on top of risotto at the French Stall on Serangoon Road.