Sensation: After spending the day under the hot summer sun in a tiny bay around San Vito lo Capo the crisp mountain air is invigorating.
Taste: Artisan ricotta pastry, crisp and soft, not too sweet - yes, it has been known that such a pastry can steal my heart - and a tiny fragrant Italian espresso.
Charm: Erice is an ambient little place to explore, with lots of atmospheric corners and crannies, two historical castles and some remains of ancient Elymian and Phoenician walls. I also enjoyed tasting a host of Marsala wines and a selection of olives at the gourmet shops along the way through the narrow streets.
How to get there: It is possible to drive up the narrow windey road leading up the mountain. Or simply take the cable car close to Trapani: it's only three euros for a 20-minute thrill.
Must-do: Caffe Maria offers a scenic upstairs balcony and a gourmet menu. Just go, both are unmissable.
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